Two ovens behind one panel is a lot of electronics, and the MED302LWS shows why. This Masterpiece double wall oven is 29 3/4 inches wide with a pair of 4.5 cu. ft. cavities, 16 modes upstairs and 13 downstairs, and it draws up to 40 amps at 9200 watts. In the kitchens we visit it is usually the main cooking appliance in a household that hosts often.
Because each cavity has its own elements, sensor and fan, the simplest diagnostic question is whether only one oven is affected. If the lower oven is cold while the upper bakes, we are not looking at the supply or main control but at the lower cavity’s own circuit.
The Self Clean cycle pushes both temperature and the door lock hard, so a stuck latch after cleaning is another regular call. We check the feed and the door lock first, then sensors and elements, and quote the repair in writing before parts are ordered.
Not at all. The cavities heat independently, so a cold lower oven points to its element, sensor or relay. We test those first, which usually avoids replacing the main control board.
Please do not force it. The latch motor or switch may have stopped mid-cycle. Let the cavity cool, switch off the breaker, and call us; forcing the door can bend the lock assembly.
The probe jack sits in the upper cavity. A bent contact, grease in the socket or a damaged probe lead are the typical reasons, and a short test with a known good probe tells us which.
Request a visit online in about a minute or phone our coordinators. Close-in neighborhoods often see a same-day slot; the outer counties usually get the next day across Houston.