A frameless black glass top like the CIT304YB usually sits in a kitchen where the counter was cut to a tight 28 7/8 by 20 inch opening, so the cooktop has very little room to breathe. That matters for service: induction electronics under the glass rely on a fan and clear airflow, and a drawer or oven stacked too close below can push the unit into thermal shutdown.
With 7,200 W on a 30 A feed, we check the wiring terminals and the breaker first, because a loose lug at 208-240 V creates heat long before anything stops working. After that we test each of the four elements, the 11-inch zone and the MultiTouch panel, which can misread a press when the surface is wet or sticky.
CIT304BB is named as the successor on Thermador’s page. Before we order anything, we confirm the exact part number on the rating plate.
Not necessarily. A single dead zone more often points to a coil, its power module or a connector under the glass. We test the zone before recommending anything and quote the repair in writing.
PowerBoost is designed for short bursts, and the cooktop steps the power back when it runs hot. If it drops out repeatedly, we check the cooling fan and airflow rather than the setting.
Moisture on a touch panel can register as a press. If it keeps happening on a dry, clean surface, the control board or its glass contact is the next thing we test.
Request a visit online in about a minute or phone our coordinators. Close-in neighborhoods often see a same-day slot; the outer counties usually get the next day across Houston.